E-zine – The Methods Of List Maintenance

Expect to have to present an issue of your e-zine every week or two weeks and avoid leaving long, long gaps in between mailings,otherwise, quite simply people will forget you. This is a great place to start if you’re starting out, for the simple reason people like free info,and it’s so much easier to get people to subscribe to this type of list compared to others, even when there’s freebies involved. Of course,you will have to know a lot about your field of expertise to present regular useful issues, or even pull in outside articles from publishers to use as content. The catch is you’ll have to be on top of things, and it does take some time to come up with good content for issues. The up side to this is people will be waiting for your e-zine. If it’s good and keeps people reading content wise, it’s a surefire way to keep response rates up and to make a connection with your subscribers, the personal touch, which in turn will add up to trust and a higher purchase rate for your own products. Another great thing about the newsletter and e-zine is it can be quite personal. As the readers and subscribers get used to you as a publisher, and you become white listed (In their spam filers and in their minds) you’ll see a greater interest in your products, because after all,you’re not just another marketer out there spouting rubbish to everyone to make a quick buck. You’re a trusted publisher in an authorititative role, and people will listen to you, and buy your stuff. This takes time though. Don’t expect to become well know to all your subscribers overnight.

Unsubscription Rate: Many e-zines have become successful because of their great response rates and low unsubscription rates due to good content. A small lapse though and this can all go pear shaped,especially when it starts to turn into an ad list and subscribers trust is broken. Subscription Rate: A higher than average subscription rate is good news. Reasons for this include people liking to get useful content for free.

Ad income: Excellent and steady ad income from your subscriber base. Compared to other lists that don’t even sell ads, this is a great way to bring in the few extra thousand dollars per month. Be careful not to over do this though, as subscribers may start deleting mail from you on the basis they think it’s an ad rather than anything u
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seful.

Response Rate Over Time: Response rate over time is again higher than average. Of course this stat varies a lot depending on if your subscribers are actually interested in what you’re sending them or not.

General usefulness: Very handy to get that all important information from your subscribers. Many have asked why their subscribers never write to them. I tell them that they need to ask them to write to them about something that effects them and they will. Again, third party ads can be a distraction, but all in all, if your content is good and people are reading, this is prime research material, albeit not quite as personal as some of the other list types, which can bring in a lower response.

Summary: A great place to start if you have no list at all right now. The ease of pulling subscribers when you’re giving them good content beats any other type of list out there. If you don’t mind high maintenance and putting a lot of time into this, the e-zine or newsletter may just be for you. If however you’re short on time, or don’t enjoy writing articles particularly, the other lists may be more up your street. The results however from running this type of list are plain to see, and are very encouraging. Just be careful how you balance out ads and content. And hey, if things get too much in the future, you can always slowly evolve the e-zine into one of the other list types, which is indeed how many marketers start out. Hard work, but a great little earner, and an investment for the future.

By: piano

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Eugenijus Sakalauskas Subscribe to my exclusive 12 lessons e-Course” Every Business Needs Opt-In Email Marketing ”

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Vegetables And Flowers Can Be Friends

I had a friend who grew up on a farm and even now, years later, she refuses to plant anything unless it has some sort of usefulness. To earn a place in her garden, plants require more than pretty petals; they have to deter pests or provide a source of food. Today, more and more people are planting similar useful gardens by combining edible plants with flowers in an effort to introduce more home grown foods in their diet.

This mix of food and flowers is also very practical for those with small yards or even balconies. Years ago, people lived off the food from their gardens, much like my friend with the farmer roots. Commercial food production took over and people transformed their gardens by planting lawns and blooming ornamental plants. Now, however, we’re seeing a merging of the two as home owners are going back to their grass roots. Often, fruit trees are chosen over ornamental varieties. Fences and trellises are now being adorned by grapes, and vegetables are being planted in amongst summer annuals. Even landscapers are noticing the difference, with requests for edible landscape designs becoming more common.

Here are some tips to get you thinking like an edible plant gardener:

Add color by planting red cabbage, yellow peppers, purple eggplants or rainbow chard. Combining these nourishing plants with flowers attracts more useful insects and increases flower production and vegetable yields. Certain plants such as garlic when planted next to roses, provides a natural insecticide by repelling aphids.

Instead of ornamental shrubs, try blueberries for their tasty fruit, fall color and low maintenance. Others include Saskatoon/Juneberry, Gooseberry, or Blue Elderberry. Hazelnuts when trimmed, make wonderful hedges, and strawberries make a tasty ground cover.

For filling in those large areas, try horseradish, or Jerusalem artichoke with its showy yellow flowers.

Shade tolerant veggies include beets, brussel sprouts, cabbage, garlic, leaf lettuce, spinach, turnips and radishes. Once you taste the flavor in your homegrown delicacies, you’ll be increasing your crop every year.

Edible flowers are both decorative and tasty when added to salads and soups. Some of my favorites include:

Nasturtiums – Adds a pepp
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ery flavor to salsa and gazpacho.

Anise Hyssop – Sweet anise or black licorice flavor.

Basil – Flowers have a similar, milder taste than the leaves.

Bee Balm – Use leaves and flowers to make tea with an Earl Grey flavor.

Borage – Large shrub with purple star-shaped flowers that taste like cucumber are wonderful in soups and salads.

Calendula – The bright orange flowers taste similar to saffron with a peppery taste that adds a golden color to foods.

Carnation – Has a peppery, spicy flavor.

Chamomile – Tastes similar to apple and makes a relaxing tea that’s easy on the stomach.

Chicory – The beautiful bright blue flowers tolerate the worst of growing conditions. The roots can be used to make a coffee substitute, the buds can be pickled similar to a caper, and the young leaves make a nice addition to a salad.

Chives – Flowers have a mild onion flavor and the chopped stems are a nice addition to soups, salads or just about any recipe you would add onions.

Pansy – Flowers have a mild sweet to tart flavor.

Violet – Sweet nectar-like flavor.

By: Mark Hostetler

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WelcomeHomeNevada.com provides a professional guide to Las Vegas Nevada Real Estate. For excellent agent services in the Las Vegas area, contact Mark Hostetler, your Las Vegas Realtor.

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Tips For Preparing A Planting Bed

If you are preparing beds for landscaping around your house this article should simplify the process for you. I say that because of everything that is written about this subject, some of it is accurate, some of it is just plain wrong, and much of it is much more complicated than it needs to be. I like to think of myself as Simple Simon. I find the easiest, yet most effective way to do things, and they work.

Let’s assume that the area where you are planning your bed is now planted in grass. How do you get rid of the grass? Chemicals or no chemicals? Chemicals are easy, so we’ll look at the chemical method first.

My favorite chemical for killing grass and weeds is RoundUp, and used properly it is effective. Rule number one: Read the label on the package, and mix the chemical exactly as recommended by the manufacturer. Rule number two: Assume that every plant that the RoundUp touches is going to die. It is a non-selective herbicide.

The first thing you need to do is mark out where your planting bed is going to be. Spend some time on this step. If you are landscaping around your house, give careful consideration to what is going to be planted in the bed, and then decide how large each plant is going to be when fully mature.

You can keep plants trimmed to a certain size, but be realistic when you make these estimates. Trust me when I tell you, this is the number one mistake made by Do-it-Yourself landscapers. People are just afraid to make those beds large enough.

Typically, a bed should never be narrower than 42”, and corner beds should be 12’ in diameter. Islands. If you make those little tiny island beds that I see everywhere I am going to come over to your house and snap you with a wet towel! The island bed in your front yard should be 20’ to 40’ long, and a minimum of 12’ in diameter on at least one end.

The easiest way to mark out your planting beds is to buy a can of marking paint at the hardware store. Unlike most spray paint, this only works when the can is inverted, and it is designed specifically for painting lines on the ground. They even have cans that spray chalk instead of paint. I’ve always used the paint, it holds up better if it gets wet.

Once you have the outline of the bed established and marked, mix up some RoundUp and spray all the grass and weeds
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inside the bed area. Do not put RoundUp in a sprayer that you intend to use for other purposes. You need a sprayer that is dedicated for the use of herbicides. When applying the spray, be very careful not to let the spray drift onto the grass and other plants that you do not want to kill.

To minimize spray drift, adjust the spray nozzle so the spray pattern is narrow and the droplets are larger. A wide, fine spray pattern is sure to drift outside of the intended area. Also keep the pressure in the sprayer quite low. Pump it just enough to deliver the spray. High pressure causes the spray to atomize and drift. Apply just enough spray to wet the foliage. If you have liquid dripping off the blades of grass, you are applying too much. More is not better.

Once sprayed, be careful not to step in the area that has been sprayed. Many people have had golden footprints across their lawn because they forgot and walked through what had been sprayed.

This is the difficult part, and the part that many people do not get, so pay close attention. The only way that the RoundUp can possibly work is if you leave it alone. Did you get that? Once you apply the RoundUp, don’t do another thing with that bed for 72 hours. That’s three very long days. I know you’re anxious, but this is the price you pay for not planning ahead.

RoundUp is a systemic herbicide, which means that it has to be absorbed by the plant, then translocated throughout the plant. It takes three days for that to happen. If you go digging and chopping, you might just as well skip the spraying step. Go build a compost bin while you’re waiting.

After three days the weeds and grass are going to look as healthy and happy as ever. Don’t let ’em fool ya. They’re as dead as dead can be. Providing the RoundUp didn’t get washed off by rain within the first 24 hours of the waiting period. Now you can dig and chop to your heart’s content.

However, the only digging that I do is to go around the edge of the bed and strip the sod back about 15”. Just peel off about 1” and flip it into the center of the bed. This makes it easier to edge and mulch the bed if you get the sod out of the way. Now for the non- chemical method.

Mark out the outline of the bed as described above. Strip the sod back 15”, just like above. Since you aren’t using any herbicides I would dig down about 1-1/2” when removing the sod from the edges. Take the sod you stripped back and lay it in the center of the bed upside down and pack it down firmly. Now take newspaper or brown paper grocery bags and cover the entire bed area. Use 9 layers of newspaper. No matter what method you used, chemical or non chemical, you are now ready to fill the planting bed with topsoil.

Put 8 to 12” of good rich topsoil in the bed. Make sure the soil is higher in the back, closest to the wall, so the water drains away from the building. If you are creating an island planting make the center of the bed the highest point. Make sure the topsoil you buy is well drained and rich in organic matter. Buying topsoil is a tricky game, you’ve got to be careful and shop around. Topsoil is one item that you do not want to order over the phone, sight unseen.

This is what you are looking for when buying topsoil:

Topsoil that is rich in organic matter will be very dark in color. If the soil is light in color it is probably just fill sand. The other thing you’ve got to watch for is how well drained the soil is. Topsoil that has a clay base is poorly drained and sticky, and your plants will not be happy at all. They might even die if they are too wet. Once a clay based topsoil dries out it gets very hard.

Today most topsoil is run through a screener to remove the clumps, rocks, roots, and sticks. There is nothing wrong with buying unscreened topsoil, especially if you’ve visually inspected it and have found it to be of good quality. Actually, really good topsoil shouldn’t have to be screened, but there is little of
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that quality topsoil to be had.

When you visit the yard where the soil is stockpiled, scoop up a handful of the topsoil and run it through your fingers. If it seems to be grainy, it is probably good soil. But if it appears to be tiny round balls that can be smashed between your fingers, it is probably a clay based soil that will trap water during rainy seasons, and get as hard as a rock when it’s hot and dry.

Pay attention to how the soil is screened. Some machines just shake the soil over a set of screens to separate the debris, and others actually shred the soil. If the soil needs to be shredded, you don’t want it. Look closely at the pile that the raw soil is coming from. If the soil in the raw pile is as hard as a rock, that’s what the screened soil is going be once you get it in your beds. If it appears to be fairly loose, it’s probably good soil.

Put 6-8” of topsoil in your beds. You are now ready to plant. Did you notice that I didn’t get into rototilling and all kinds of extra work? Nor did I suggest that you add bone meal or any of those other goodies that the garden centers sell. I skipped the part about checking the pH too. pH is important, but I’ve found that good topsoil almost always has a suitable pH.

I’ve got a confession to make. In almost 30 years of growing, planting, landscaping and the like, I’ve never tested the pH of the soil on any project that I was working on. Is that smart? I don’t know, but I’ve been successful in my efforts, and I have landscaped several hundred homes and grown tens of thousands of plants.

It’s something to think about. What I’m really trying to say is don’t get caught up in too many details, and be careful who you take advice from at those garden stores. Many of those sales people were flipping burgers last week.

By: Michael J. McGroarty

Article Directory: http://www.articledashboard.com

Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his most interesting website, www.freeplants.com and sign up for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by gardening-articles.com

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Landscaping Materials – Plants, Lumber And Stone

There are many different types of landscaping materials available to anyone and you do not have to be a landscaping professional. Do-it-yourself landscaping has become popular and materials that were once available only to contractors and landscapers are now available to the general public. There are now many more stores that supply exotic landscaping materials then there once was. If you have an area to landscape and can lift, dig and use a shovel then you can create an attractive design using plants and other landscaping material.

Walls and pathways can be very pleasing and can be fully integrated into your design. These features are usually made using stone landscaping material. Materials needed for paving, retaining walls and dry setting are much more extensive than just using brick. Design stones, textured patio paving and artic granite can be combined to form many different patterns. You can access information on planning and stone laying online and you will soon discover that these types of projects are easier then you first thought.

When you use landscaping materials that create a lovely outdoor area you will be spending more time outdoors than before. Decks that were originally wood are now being ripped up and replaced with stones, creating a relaxing outdoor patio.

Patio Deck Materials

Other landscaping materials have progressed much further for boards and lumber than the old green-treated wood. There are other options available if you cannot afford to replace your old lumber with the newer wood materials. Boards can now be found made of recycled materials that look better than natural lumber and these recycled boards will last much longer than regular wood.

Plastic boarding can be found in a wide range of colors that can be nicely accessorized with greenery and other outdoor plants. There are also many natural stains available if you decide to use natural wood for your patio deck. When using a grain on wood it is important to apply a waterproof coating, as this will provide long-term protection for you patio deck.

Stone materials can also be used on patio decks and should not be limited to only paths and walls. Stones can be used as stand-alone attractions, such as a large rock surrounded by shrubs and plants. You can also use stone for a variety of seating ideas. Sto
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ne landscaping material are popular choices to bring life to a dull yard. Besides using stone your design should also include trees, flowers, shrubs and plants to create an attractive outdoor area.

No matter what landscaping material you decide to use you should always make sure that your design blends in with the surroundings. It is important to enhance your home with landscaping and create a comfortable area where you can relax. You can enhance interesting features and create shady lounging points. You do not want your yard to be too busy so remember to keep things simply and create a lush look with greenery and potted plants.

By: Cindy Heller

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Cindy Heller is a professional writer. To learn more about landscaping materials, please visit backyard landscaping ideas.

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Handcrafted Garden Bridges Builds Traditional Arched Span Bridges With Modern Flair

Though handcrafted wooden bridges have been used for many centuries for things such as draw bridges, spanning crevices, creeks, ponds, gulleys and anything from dips to depressions, a California-based custom bridge maker is currently receiving international recognition for spanning the divide between traditional to modern bridge making.

Japan started making wooden arch bridges many decades ago to beautify and maintain Koi ponds and water gardens and now, in part due to the efforts of Handcrafted Garden Bridges and its unique use of California Redwood or Western Red Cedar, other parts of the world are catching on.
Typically made of cedar, pine, douglas fir, Handcrafted Garden Bridges uses the more durable, weather, insect and water resistant California Redwood. By using these materials, Handcrafted Garden Bridges last for many years. In addition to using weather and water resistant wood or sealed and stained, Handcrafted Garden Bridges uses stainless steel hardware such as bolts, washer, nuts and screws.

As an added bonus, Handcrafted Garden Bridges are very easily assembled, taking an average of only 30 minutes to assemble, and require only a few tools. Each board is numbered and labeled, and each post and rail easily matches the numbering system. “All that is required, is to put in the screws and tighten,” said owner and founder Joe Guraro.
“Down through the ages, wooden arch bridges have brought joy, beauty and comfort to pond owners, homeowners, farmers, and landscapers,” said owner Joe Guraro, “I’d like to think that my bridges do the same.” He also points out, that besides being an attractive addition to any garden, it also has an added useful function of opening up an area that needs to be easily accessed.

More information please contact:

http://www.Redwoodgardenbridges.com

info@redwoodgardenbridges.com

By: joeguraro

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Handcrafted Garden Bridges offers quality handcrafted garden bridges for Koi ponds, Japanese water gardens and landscaped yards. Their bridges use galvanized hardware and are made from quality Calif redwood . Joe Guraro, the craftsman-owner of this company, has been “building bridges” since 1998 and welcomes you to his website.

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That’s all the news for today guys, so until next time, thanks for stopping by.

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